Rajasthan
A Complex Tapestry
India. In a land full of surprises there are many certainties - the glorious luminosity of the light, the rich colours and the smiles on people’s faces
It is a country of contrasts and contradictions. From the wealth and splendour of her majestic palaces to the weathered textures on the dusty streets.
The usually harsh sun softens in February, offering up gentle warmth giving way to pleasant, moderate temperatures - a refreshing pause before the intense heat of the summer sets in.
ITINERARY - OVERVIEW
17TH FEB - TOUR COMMENCES
MEET AT DELHI AIRPORT AT 10:00 AM
Jaipur
Samode Haveli
Bundi
Haveli Braj Bhushan
Udaipur
Fateh Niwas
Fly Udaipur - Delhi for connection home.
Arrive Delhi Airport late afternoon.
JAIPUR
JAIPUR
Jaipur, the state capital, is also known as the pink city, and is one of the most beautiful and culturally rich areas in the whole of India. The city is also known for its traditional handicrafts, textiles, and cuisine, all of which are an important part of its cultural heritage.
The city offers a plethora of architectural wonders, including palaces, forts, and temples, each boasting intricate designs and historical significance.
From the Hawa Mahal’s unique façade to the astronomical instruments at Jantar Mantar, and the majestic Amber Fort, Jaipur showcases a blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture. Each site offers a different set of textures, patterns, and forms, perfect for abstract and creative photography.
JAIPUR
Monkey Temple
JAIPUR
Galta Ji Temple is a group of iconic temples at the holy place of Bath Galta, a peaceful retreat amid nature, offering mesmerising views of the Aravali hills within a green and beautifully serene environment.
This complex is also known by the name Monkey Temple, for it is here that resides large colonies of macaque monkeys.
JAIPUR
The temples are particularly striking - decorated with fresco paintings inside and out. Galta Ji Temple is one of the oldest surviving temples in the city. Even though many say the current temple was built in the 15th century, Galta Ji is believed to be more than 3000 years old.
The water comes from two natural springs known as Galta Kund and Surya Kund - these two springs are believed to be holy and are said to have healing powers.
It is considered to be one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the Hindu religion.
JAIPUR
The 18th-century markets in the original walled city of Jaipur are always full of colourful chaos. One morning we will have an early start to visit the markets and experience the flurry of activity here as the pink city awakens.
Stops will include the fragrant flower market, the wholesale milk market, the vegetable market, and the Govind Dev Ji temple.
There’s something special about shopping in a cultural hub. It allows you the rare luxury of discovering unique sights and experiences.
For those interested in retail therapy it cannot be denied that Jaipur is a place where you get the best of both worlds; premium-quality products that take you on an artistic and historical journey.
JAIPUR
The village streets are inhabited by various craft communities engaged in diverse crafts such as block printing, weaving of carpets, stone and paper painting, gem stonecutting, pottery, traditional jooti-making, metal works and lac work-bangles.
We will journey out to Samode village.
Samode is a large Rajasthani town full of cobbled streets and friendly villagers, mainly farmers and craftspeople.
In the sixteenth century, prosperity in the township led to the construction of a grand and glorious Rajput fort, which was converted into an exquisite palace in the 19th century.
JAIPUR
We will revive ourselves with some freshly brewed chai from a famous but inconspicuous chai vendor.
JAIPUR
We will visit the small village of Bagru, on the outskirts of Jaipur in order that we might immerse ourselves in the local community and while we are there we will take a traditional block-printing workshop.
The Bagru area is known for its textiles, and here, the Chhippa community create vibrant designs with a traditional technique known as block printing. Almost everyone in the village is involved in all parts of the process - from dying, printing, washing, and drying - and they've been doing it for over 350 years.
During the workshop, we will be introduced to many parts of the process and have the opportunity to try it out for ourselves.
JAIPUR
Of course we will visit the Amber Fort, located on the edge of the city.
Surrounded by ramparts, this marvellous fortress is perched on a hill near Maota Lake. Construction began in 1592 and carried on for over 125 years. Although the fort is in ruins, the interior palaces, gardens, and temples retain much of their pristine beauty.
We have visited this magnificent building on two different tours and still come away wanting more.
JAIPUR
And while we resolutely don’t do sunrise, we will, if conditions prevail, head out early to the Amber Fort and stop en route at the Jal Mahal - or Water Palace - so beautiful at sunrise.
JAIPUR
The City Palace in Jaipur is a magnificent complex of courtyards, gardens, and buildings that stands as a striking example of royal Rajasthani and Mughal architecture, blended with some European touches.
Located in the heart of the Old City, it has been a part of Jaipur's cultural and historical landscape since its foundation in the early 18th century.
JAIPUR
As magnificent as it is, we will probably find just as much to photograph outside the palace where the crumbling colonnades and peeling paint give us a very different set of textures to work with. Just some of the conteasts and contradictions that make India such a fascinating country.
This is a slower and more immersive tour than those we have done previously. We will spend time at each location in order that we can fully engage with our surroundings.
Doug Chinnery
JAIPUR
We will experience rural India and visit a small village dedicated to the art of weaving. Here we will witness the transformative power of community-driven initiatives, the resilience of rural life, and the remarkable impact of women empowerment.
At the core of this village lies the belief that artisans possess untapped potential and unique stories to share.
Unlike traditional rug-making processes, this collective goes beyond predetermined designs and encourages weavers to become the architects of their own artistic expressions.
This freedom allows their creativity to flow through the knots, resulting in rugs that are authentic, exceptional, and deeply personal.
Manchaha is a collection of artisanal rugs that embraces the untamed creativity of weavers. It celebrates their exceptional skills and gives them the freedom to unleash their artistic expressions through the medium of rug-making.
Manchaha, a Hindi word popular in our weaving community, means “Expression of my heart” Each rug in the Manchaha collection is a testament to the weavers’ creative capabilities, making it a true work of art.
JAIPUR
The story of Manchaha began with a hunt to be more sustainable and a passion for empowering artisans and nurturing their creative talents.
The initiative, conceptualized by Kavita Chaudhary (Design Director, Jaipur Rugs) has won eight prestigious global design awards such as the German Design Award, Elle Décor Award, Carpet Design Award, IF Design Award, Kyoorius Design Award and European Product Design Award, all while going up against mega design houses and billion-dollar product companies from across the globe.
Each rug is made using leftover hand-spun yarn batches, which reduces industry-wide wastage and makes its color palette as unique as its design. Reusing and revival from waste, the problem became its own solution.
JAIPUR
For the best view of the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) we will visit the Wind View Cafe
JAIPUR
The Jantar Mantar in Jaipur is an architectural masterpiece, consisting of 19 main astronomical instruments made of stone and marble. These massive structures, each serve a specific function, such as measuring time, predicting eclipses, tracking locations of major stars as the earth orbits around the sun.
Jantar Mantar of Jaipur is considered to be one of the largest observations ever built. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2010
JAIPUR
Jantar Mantar
BUNDI
Rajasthan’s most Ancient and peaceful town.
BUNDI
Bundi is a hidden gem in the desert state of Rajasthan, loved for its impressive forts and palaces and the beauty of its surrounding hills, lakes and forests. This quaint town lies in a narrow valley at the base of a large craggy hill, enclosed by huge walls and fortified by four gateways.
Nawal Sagar Lake is a huge, man-made lake with several small islands. This lake is located in the middle of Bundi and the entire city can be seen mirrored on its serene waters
BUNDI
Bundi’s well-preserved old town is a place of real charm, full of narrow alleyways, colourful bazaars, crumbling havelis and little temples.
Despite its allure, Bundi is not on Rajasthan’s main tourist circuit and remains largely unspoilt.
It was undoubtedly an unexpected highlight on our 2024 tour and consequently we have added in an extra night here.
BUNDI
It is a small, friendly town with a wonderful palace and a prodigious number of stepwells.
Raniji ki Baori - also known as the Queen’s Stepwell (top right) is one of the most beautiful stepwells in Rajasthan and is now protected by the Archeological Survey of India.
BUNDI
BUNDI
The rulers of Bundi were known for their patronisation of art and architecture.
The Bundi School of Painting, considered as an important and one of the most popular Rajasthani styles of Indian miniature painting, originated in the 17th century.
Bundi has been described as India’s St Ives - a place brimming with artistic inspiration and creativity. From the intricate frescoes in the city palace to the fading street art, the town is a riot of dust, colour and delicously peeling paint.
UDAIPUR
UDAIPUR
The fairy-tale city of Udaipur, with its marble palaces and lakes surrounded by a ring of hills, was founded by Maharana Udai Singh in 1559. The town is dominated by the massive City Palace, which overlooks Lake Pichola with its romantic island palaces.
UDAIPUR
It’s often called the Venice of the East due to its five beautiful lakes, romantic atmosphere, and delightful weather.
Strolling around the lake as the colours change in the sky is a wonderful opportunity to immerse oneself in the spirit of the place.
UDAIPUR
Dhobi Ghat is basically a very large open-air laundromat. Although the phrase is most often used to refer to the Mumbai Dhobi Ghat, is used all over India to refer to any place where many washers are present.
Their colourful silk saris and the rich golden light is a sight to behold.
Gangour Ghat located along the Banks of Lake Pichola.
UDAIPUR
A short distance from Udaipur lies the bustling town of Nathdwara. It is famed for the Shrinathji temple, but it is also home to traditional artists of pichvai, an ancient artform of beautiful cloth paintings.
Pichvais are religious cloth paintings that are hung behind the idols in the shrines of Lord Shrinathji. It is an art form that pays tribute to the seven-year-old Lord Krishna. ‘Pichwai’ is a pathway to grace and spirituality.
UDAIPUR
The intricate gold leaf work seen in Nathdwara was inspired by Persian craftsmanship, a technique that gained prominence in the 17th century.
Local artisans extensively embraced this method, applying it to clothing, detailed architecture, jewelry, and even the leaves of trees, using gold leaves for broader works.
For smaller, more delicate pieces, such as miniature paintings, gold paint was the preferred medium. The craftsmen of Nathdwara adopted a Mughal technique known as the "veil of gold," which entailed adding a gold wash to the background of paintings, imparting a warm, glowing effect.
UDAIPUR
The school in Nathdwara is one of the most celebrated and distinctive in India. A community for over three hundred years, its paintings are sought after by collectors the world over. This tight-knit collective can be found in the ancient houses of the town’s ‘Chitrakaron ki gully’ or ‘artists’ street’. There are only ten to twelve original painters left and they are holding out against the march of time and technology in an effort to preserve what they see as a divinely ordained vocation, making now the best time to visit Nathdwara.
The history of wall painting is an essential and time–honored tradition for the artists of Nathdwara.
UDAIPUR
Behind the picturesque havelis, ghats and temples that line the lakefront, a network of lively bazaars stretch across the old walled city. The atmosphere is lively but very different to Jaipur and Bundi.
UDAIPUR
The Jagdish Temple is a magnificent Hindu temple that stands as a testament to the rich architectural and cultural heritage of India.
This 3-story wonder glitters with dancing elephants to colourful deities.
The temple is renowned for its intricate carvings, depicting scenes from Hindu mythology. The walls and pillars are adorned with figures of deities, celestial beings, dancers, and musicians, showcasing the exceptional artistic skills of the artisans of that time.
UDAIPUR
Jal Sanjhi, or the art of painting on water, is kept alive by just one family in Udaipur.
With a canvas of water rather than paper or cloth, they’ve been practising the art of Jal Sanjhi for generations. Every painting depicts only one subject: the Hindu god, Krishna.
Each painting lasts a maximum of a day before the powders sink and the piece is ruined.
We will visit this artist’s studio - it was undoubtedly another highlight on our rcent tour.
UDAIPUR
Lake Pichola
UDAIPUR
As our tour draws to a close we will spend our last evening in Rajasthan on a private boat. We will cruise around Lake Pichola and enjoy a three course meal as the sun goes down.
If conditions are right, the colour the water will turn to liquid amber and the light reflected off the buildings will be 24ct gold.
UDAIPUR
WEDDING SEASON
During our 2024 tour it soon became apparent that February is ‘wedding season’. And as everyone knows, when there is a marriage in India, it is done in style.
WEDDING SEASON
Valda Bailey
The occasion is populated with many preceding celebrations - multi-day affairs rich with traditions and customs
What this means for us, as curious creatives, is street theatre of a whole different order as the pre-wedding parades and processions sweep through the town.
We were fortunate to witness such events in Bundi and Bagru and they were definite highlights for us.
WEDDING SEASON
Valda Bailey
Bundi
Fly
Drive
ACCOMMODATION
As ever, we have chosen our accommodation carefully. We like to stake a balance between authenticity and comfort and so we try to choose heritage properties wherever possible. Because they are not standardised western-style hotels, the rooms within a given category of accommodation will vary.
SAMODE HAVELI, Jaipur. 5 nights.
An urban oasis in the historic walled city of Jaipur, Samode Haveli is a traditional Indian mansion set in a verdant garden with apartments arranged around a series of intimate courtyards.
Built 225 years ago as a residence of the rulers of Samode, it is still occupied by their descendants, who have converted their home into a luxury hotel.
ACCOMMODATION
Bundi is a small town. The accommodation here is more limited. The Haveli Braj Bhushan does not offer us the same degree of opulence as the Samode Haveli, but it more than makes up for that in terms of charm and the friendliness of the owners.
HAVELI BRAJ BHUSHAN - Bundi 3 nights.
A heritage hotel and museum. The Haveli Braj Bhushanjee was built 200 years before and still belongs to Bohara Braj Bhushanjee family.
The authentic and cozy atmosphere of this Haveli offers a great opportunity to travelers to feel traditional lifestyle of bygone era of this region, where past still lives on.
ACCOMMODATION
FATEH NIWAS - Udaipur- 4 nights.
Fateh Niwas has often been crowned one of the best heritage hotels in Udaipur. The property extends enticing panoramas of the grand City Palace, Jagmandir, Monsoon Palace and Lake Pichola, lined up against the backdrop of the Aravalli Hills.
Remember that things happen on “Indian Time.” Keep this in mind, bring a good book and try to avoid getting stressed out. We have engaged the services of a first rate ground agent but he, too, is at the mercy of the Indian way of life.
DON’T EXPECT THINGS TO ALWAYS HAPPEN
ON TIME IN INDIA!
Similarly, although we have no reason to suspect we will deviate from this schedule, we do reserve the right to skip elements, if time or conditions do not allow us to incorporate them . We have no reason to suspect that this will be the case - we have spent a lot of time planning this itinerary - but we have to remain flexible when it comes to timings.
Pearls of wisdom (?!!?)
from the whatsApp group for the last trip
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
GMT + 5 1/2 hours
The currency is the Indian rupee.
The current exchange rate to GBP is 104 INR
The current exchange rate to USD is 83 INR
The rupee is non-exportable so currency is only available upon arrival. Exchange facilities are available at airports and bureau de changes and ATM machines exist in the major towns and cities.
Wifi is available in the larger cities and all the hotels.
Tipping is expected in India so request notes of smaller denominations when changing money. We will tip people on behalf of the group.
VISAS
All tourists must apply for a visa in advance of travel. An online application can only be done 120 days before departure, however, the process is relatively straightforward. Visit https://visa-to-india.com/do-you-need-eta.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
HEALTH
The best source of advice is NATHNAC (travelhealthpro.org.uk), used by doctors. As a guide Tetanus, Typhoid, Hepatitis A and Polio are strongly recommended. You are also advised to take anti-Malarial medication. You should seek medical advice before travelling to India from your local health practitioner.
Delhi belly is always a possibility even in the four and five star hotels. We advise you to bring medication just in case but to minimise the chances of succumbing, avoid drinking tap water at all costs and eating from street vendors. Hand washers are strongly recommended and can drastically cut the incidence of contracting something unpleasant.
WEATHER
The weather in Rajasthan is going to be warm! We are travelling around so there will be some variation.
Daytime temperatures are high and range from 25°C (76°F) to 29°C (85°F). Lows can go down to 11°C (52°F)
As ever, layers are the way forward together with sturdy walking shoes. Roads are often uneven and dusty.
Most of the hotels have swimming pools - often there is nothing better after a tiring day trawling around dusty streets.
A COMPLEX TAPESTRY - Rajasthan
We are delighted that we have been able to hold the price from our tour this year despite the fact that this tour is slightly longer.
FYV MEMBER SINGLE ROOM (standard) £ 8,975 **
FYV MEMBER SINGLE ROOM (upgrade/suite) please enquire **
PARTNER (non photographing) £ 6,900
Non-FYV MEMBER SINGLE ROOM (standard) £9,450
Non-FYV MEMBER SINGLE ROOM (upgrade/suite) please enquire
PARTNER (non photographing) £ 6,900
The price includes lunches and eight evening meals
Wine or beer with those meals (and the odd G&T)
Single accommodation in heritage hotels.
Transport around the area in a large air conditioned coach.
The company and guiding services of the brilliant Luke
All entrance fees.
All workshop fees
Internal flight
All tips
Tuition from Valda and Doug
Pre-tour notes and logistical assistance from the equally brilliant Elaine.
Post-tour Zoom review.
£10 carbon offsetting fee.
Or email
elaine@baileychinnery.com
TOUR COMMENCES ON 17th February 2025 at around 10am in New Delhi (pick up at New Delhi Airport)
TOUR ENDS ON 28th February 2025 around mid-afternoon in New Delhi (drop off at New Delhi Airport)
** To be eligible for the FYV subscribers discount, you need to have taken out a 12 month membership or have been on a monthly subscription for over six months.